Restaurants, nightlife, rooftops, beaches and weekend safaris: Tanzania's biggest city, covered the way we cover everywhere else.

Beyond the beaches: markets, museums and the woodcarvers of Mwenge, alongside the island trips that anchor most visits.

Zanzibar to Pugu Hills: where to go when a Dar es Salaam weekend needs to leave the city, without needing to fly to Arusha.

Amell in Dar's rooftop pool bar to Bravo Coco Beach: where to actually watch the sun go down over the Indian Ocean.

Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire and more: the northern Tanzania parks that make Arusha the country's safari gateway.

Eddy Tours to Arusha Safaris: the operators that actually run the Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Tarangire circuit, rated and compared.

Amell in Dar to the Akemi revolving restaurant: the city's best elevated views over the Indian Ocean and the skyline.

From Masaki's fine-dining scene to the Dar Fish Market, the restaurants worth building an evening in Dar es Salaam around.

Masaki's lounge corridor and the Mikocheni outlier: the nightlife spots worth building a Dar es Salaam evening around.

Amell in Dar to Lock & Barrel: the restaurants and rooftops that suit an evening built around someone, not just dinner.

Sinda and Mbudya Islands to Kigamboni's beaches: the easiest ocean escapes from Dar es Salaam, and how to reach each one.